Dublin, Ireland: The Bank on College Green + The Long Hall; restaurant reviews

The Bank on College Green  

20-22 College Green, Dublin 2, +353 (0)1 677 0677.  B-L-D daily. 

The Bank on College Green pub in Dublin, Ireland

Located in the oldest region of the city, this site has been occupied since Viking times.  In 1892 the Belfast Bank acquired the property and constructed this grand Victorian building, whose Franco-Scottish exterior is one of Dublin’s rare examples of Scottish sandstone.  The interior of The Bank on College Green, which was once the main banking hall, is stunningly ornate, with a stained-glass ceiling, mosaic-tiled floors, and spectacular hand-carved plasterwork and cornicing.  Huge Chatwood safes are now part of the decor, and the original vaults remain downstairs.  Now, in the humongous open interior space of this sedate “superpub,” you can enjoy a relaxed meal and drink. 

The Long Hall  

The Long Hall pub in Dublin, Ireland

51 S. Great George's St., Dublin 2; +353 1 475 1590.  M-W 4-11:30pm, Thur 1-11:30pm, F-Sat 1-12:30am, Sun3-11pm. 

This old-school pub features an ornate Victorian decor with filigreed mirrors and carved-wood snugs (enclosed booths).  In addition to perfectly poured Guinness, the pub is known for serving potent gin and tonics.  Barmen still wear white shirts and black ties, a sign that this is a historic establishment.  Note that there is no food service or music.  When I visited, we were hungry and so wound up going about a block away for dinner at The Market Bar.


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Dublin, Ireland: The Winding Stair Bookshop & Restaurant; restaurant review

The Winding Stair Bookshop & Restaurant  

40 Lower Ormond Quay, across river from Temple Bar area via Ha’penny Bridge, + 353 1 8727320, Dublin 1.  L-D daily. 

Winding Stair Bookshop in Dublin, Ireland

A particularly popular meeting place for writers, musicians, and artists in the 1970s and ‘80s, this atmospheric spot is both a café upstairs--featuring simple, old-fashioned, high-quality Irish fare--and a cozy bookshop downstairs on the ground floor, where coffee, tea, and wine service is available.

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Dublin, Ireland: Staunton’s on the Green Guesthouse; hotel review

Staunton’s on the Green Guesthouse 

83 St. Stephen's Green South, 5-min. walk to Grafton St., +353 (0)1 4782300, Dublin 2.  3 stars.  40 rooms.  E109+.  Breakfast included; room service.  Parking E10. 

Reasonable rates and a central location across from Stephen’s Green park make this Georgian guesthouse a prime choice for lodging.  You’ll be able to walk to most major sights.  The house’s own garden leads into the hidden Victorian Iveagh Gardens featuring a rustic grotto, fountains, and paths.  Guest rooms in this elegant 1750s Georgian building (actually a melding of three separate houses) are large, and each has a garden or park view.  Architectural features include magnificent marble fireplaces and elaborate plaster ceilings.  Rooms in the back are quietest, and some have French doors opening to the garden.  Breakfast is served in a basement room, and a room-service breakfast is also an option at additional charge.  This vintage property has plenty of character and a friendly staff, and though I didn’t actually stay here, my site visit convinced me to add it to the top of my Dublin lodging list for the future. 

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Dublin, Ireland: Leeson Bridge House B&B; hotel review

Leeson Bridge House B&B  

1 Upper Leeson St., in Fitzwilliam Quay, +353 1 668 2255, Dublin 4.  30 rooms.  E59+/2; booking.com E98.  Breakfast.  Free parking. 

Located on a street of Georgian Houses adjacent to Dublin’s Grand Canal, the Leeson Bridge guest house is itself within a Georgian House and the special architectural features have been preserved.

exterior of Leeson Bridge House B&B in Dublin, Ireland

Room 117 has high ceilings and free WiFi that works.

room 117 at Leeson Bridge House B&B in Dublin, Ireland

However, it also has a very small “wet room” bathroom, in which the shower had no floor tray so the water went throughout the bathroom floor and down a center drain, but still required using all available towels to sop it up.  Actually, I got used to it, and for the price I was able to tolerate it.  As an aside, the first time I saw this type of bathroom was about 30 years ago in Switzerland and, indeed, it seems to be a Swiss innovation that was brought here by an advocate.  The idea is that the natural heat will dry out the space in a short time, but that turns out not to be the reality.

wet room bathroom in room 117 at Leeson Bridge House B&B
in Dubllin, Ireland

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Dublin, Ireland: National Gallery of Ireland; things to do

National Gallery of Ireland  

Clare St., Merrion Square West, Dublin 2; +353 1 661 5133.  M-Sat 9:30am-5:30 pm, Thur 9:30am-8:30pm, Sun noon-5:30pm.  Free.  

exterior of National Gallery of Ireland in Dublin

This collection of more than 15,000 Irish and European works from the 13th through mid-20th centuries includes paintings by Rembrandt, Goya, and Monet.  The exceptional Jack B. Yeats Collection features works and items related to the Irish painter, who was the brother of poet and playwright W. B. Yeats.  Adult drawing packs and children’s activity packs are available to borrow at no charge.  I bought the museum’s desk calendar as a souvenir and it is a great reminder of my visit to Ireland. 

My favorite painting here is "A Convent Garden, Brittany," c.1913-William John Leech, Irish, 1881-1968, depicted at left.

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images ©2014 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

Dublin, Ireland: The Merrion Hotel; hotel review + restaurant review

The Merrion Hotel  

Upper Merrion Street, Dublin 2.  123 guest rooms and 20 suites.  Health spa.  Restaurant.

guest room at The Merrion Hotel in Dublin, Ireland

This luxurious 5-star hotel was created in 1997 from a row of four meticulously restored 1760s Georgian townhouses.  A contemporary-style Garden Wing was built as an addition.  Situated across the street from government offices and just a 5-minute walk to Grafton Street, the hotel holds one of Ireland’s largest collections of private art—it is 90 per cent Irish artists--and has two lovely period gardens.  In addition to sumptuous bedding and furnishings, my spacious room had a luxurious grey-and-white-marble bathroom with a deep tub/shower; I adored the fragrant Asprey Purple Water amenities.

peat brick held by Ciara Ryan at The Merrion Hotel in Dublin, Ireland

The hotel’s famous Art Tea is served in the Drawing Rooms lounges and is a don’t-miss.  Cozy fires in these period rooms burn fragrant local peat bricks composed of prehistoric decay neatly pressed into log-size rectangles.

An indulgent experience, the tea lasts about two hours and can optionally include Champagne--I recommend that it does!  The tea is poured into pale green-rimed Wedgewood china cups.  Among the choices are black teas, including the Merrion Blend, Earl Grey, and Smoked China; green teas, including mild Jasmine Pearls and delicate fruity Morgentau; fruit infusions, including Granny’s Garden, with notes of rhubarb and Bourbon vanilla; herbal infusions, including Moroccan Mint and Honeybush Orange; and a peachy white tea.  I opted for an herbal blend because I am caffeine sensitive late in the day.

Battenberg cake and scones at Art Tea at The Merrion Hotel in Dublin, Ireland

First comes a tiered tea tray bearing delicious little sandwiches (think oak-smoked Irish salmon on brown soda bread, and cucumber with cream cheese and chives on tomato bread) and both plain and fruit scones with clotted cream and lemon curd, as well as striking brightly colored slices of Battenberg cake with almond icing.

art pastries at Art Tea at The Merrion Hotel in Dublin, Ireland

Later, the piece de resistance arrives--a plate bearing exquisite pastry interpretations of three pieces of art chosen from the large collection displayed throughout the hotel.

The hotel's "Art Tea" catalogue, which depicts the hotel’s art collection, is a part of the experience and a gift to take with you.  The price for tea is E36/US$46. 






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Dublin, Ireland: The Market Bar; restaurant review

The Market Bar

interior of The Market Bar restaurant in Dublin, Ireland

14a Fade St., Dublin 2, 01 6139094.  L-D daily; $$. 

Situated within a gigantic repurposed warehouse, this gastropub literally hums with energy--drawing you in to its inviting atmosphere of red-brick walls and skylights.  Seating choices abound, but I loved the high banquette positioned under a display of shoe forms at the far end.  The tapas menu offers most items in two sizes.  For two people, even the smallest size can be a hefty serving.

tapas at The Market Bar restaurant in Dublin, Ireland

Our excellent selections included marinated olives (so many that we packed up the leftovers to treat a homeless person), Feta and chorizo salad, stuffed roasted little red peppers, and meatballs in tomato sauce with a side of patatas,  Free WiFi is available throughout, and a smoking area is upstairs. 



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Dublin, Ireland: Shopping near Grafton Street; things to do

These shops are all just a few steps from famous Grafton Street.

●Avoca  

11-13 Suffolk St., just off Grafton St., Dublin 2; +353 1 677 4215.  M-W & Sat 9:30am-6 pm, Thur-F 9:30 am-7 pm, Sun 11 am-6 pm.  

Named for the rural Irish village of its origin, Avoca claims to be one of the world's oldest surviving manufacturing companies.  It offers a fetching selection of contemporary Ireland-made clothing and housewares.  On another day, I visited the Wicklow-based woolen mill this store originated from.  Downstairs, Avoca’s wholesome café serves up snacks and take-out, and on the top floor the bright Suffolk Street Café serves breakfast and lunch with a city view.

Avoca shop, pottery, Dublin, Ireland

●George’s Street Arcade  

S. Great George’s St., Dublin 2.  M-Sat 9am-6:30 pm, Thur 9am-8pm, Sun noon-6pm.  

Very little Victorian-era British architecture has survived in Dublin.  This long, airy shopping arcade constructed of red brick and wrought iron in 1881 is said to be Europe’s oldest shopping center.  Nowadays you’ll find vintage clothing and whatnot in temporary stalls down the middle, and more items in permanent shops along each side.  Lolly and Cooks serves up sweet cupcakes and pastries.

George's Street Arcade, interior, Dublin, Ireland

●Hodges Figgis bookstore  

56-58 Dawson St., Dublin 2, 01 677 4754.   

This expansive store has been here since 1768.  It purveys an extensive selection of books by Irish authors.

Hodges Figgis bookstore, Dublin, Ireland

●Kilkenny  

6-15 Nassau St., Dublin 2, 00353 1 6777066.  

Running the length of the south end of Trinity College, this is the largest emporium of Irish-designed contemporary gifts in Ireland.  A restaurant on the first floor overlooks the grounds of Trinity College.

Kilkenny shop, Dublin, Ireland

●Powerscourt Townhouse Centre  

59 South William St., Dublin 2  

Set in an elegant Georgian house this was once known for its parties, this shopping center is now known for its unique shops. 

Powerscourt Townhouse Centre, Dublin, Ireland

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Dublin, Ireland: Trinity College + Book of Kells + Long Room; things to do

Trinity College  

on College St., Dublin 2.  

Founded in the 16th century by Queen Elizabeth I, Ireland’s oldest university is situated on the south bank of the River Liffey.  Classical and contemporary buildings adorn this busy campus, whose alumni include Jonathan Swift, Oscar Wilde, and Samuel Beckett.

entrance to Trinity College in Dublin, Ireland

●The Book of Kells  

+1 353 896 2320.  Hours vary seasonally.  €9.  

It seems everyone wants to see this ornate illuminated manuscript of the four gospels of the New Testament.  Dating from the Middle Ages—the 9th century--it was hand-painted and hand-written in Latin by Celtic monks.  Expect a long line.  You might be surprised, as I was, to discover that it is relatively small (11 inches by 15 inches) and written on calfskin.  What makes it especially noteworthy is simply that it survives.  Since 2013, you can see the entire Book of Kells online.

line for The Book of Kells in Dublin, Ireland

●Old Library  

After, continue upstairs to see the Long Room, one of Ireland’s oldest libraries.  It measures 213 feet long by 2 stories high and has a barrel-vaulted ceiling, and its floor-to-ceiling oak-wood bookshelves hold more than 200,000 rare books.  An additional claim to fame is that it is seen in Star Wars Episode II: Attack of the Clones.

interior of Long Room at Trinity College in Dublin, Ireland

●From late May through September you can spend the night on the Trinity College campus. 




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bottom image ©2014 Gene Meyers
 

Dublin, Ireland: Temple Bar District; things to do

The Temple Bar District is party central, 

with hip boutiques, galleries, and clubs.  Many of the medieval cobbled streets are car-free. 

Comet Records in Dublin, Ireland

The Temple Bar Pub

47/48 Temple Bar, Dublin 2, +353 1 672 5286/7. 

A local told me, “I love heading here on a Saturday afternoon to meet loads of travelers, have a beer, and listen to some lively traditional Irish music.”  Food service includes fresh oysters and sandwiches.  This pub has Ireland’s largest whiskey collection, and Irish Coffee is a specialty, plus you can get some fresh air in the back beer garden.

The Temple Bar Pub in Dublin, Ireland

Webcams focused on this and another pub in Dublin.

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Dublin, Ireland: O’Neill’s Bar & Restaurant; restaurant review

O’Neill’s Bar & Restaurant  

2 Suffolk St., Dublin 2, (01) 679-3656.  Food daily from 8am-10:30pm. 

Located down a side street off Grafton Street and just around the corner from Trinity College, the O’Neill’s Bar & Restaurant pub has been here for more than 300 years!  It must be Dublin central, because I was always going by it.  It looks and feels like a pub should, with plenty of cozy alcoves and snugs to tuck away in, and there is no fee for the traditional Irish music scheduled here nightly.  A carvery dishes up sandwiches and dinner, and a proper Guinness comes in a choice of the old or new glass style.  Try the popular fresh oysters, corned beef and cabbage, Irish lamb stew, Guinness beef stew, fish & chips, and baked potatoes with a choice of fillings.  A Baileys Irish coffee or a hot whiskey makes the perfect ending.  All this and a heated roof-top beer garden, several smoking areas, and the largest selection of Irish craft beers in Dublin, too!  A full Irish breakfast is served each morning.

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Dublin, Ireland: Grafton Street + Bewley’s Cafe & Restaurant + Statue of Molly Malone; things to do + restaurant review

Grafton Street  

Dublin 2.  

Dublin’s main shopping area--Grafton Street--runs right through the city center.  Now a pedestrian-only zone during business hours, this red brick-paved street stretches for several blocks and is home to international stores as well as local gems.  Though crowded with shoppers on Saturdays, it is always a fine place to stroll and be entertained by street performers or to peel off for a side-street restaurant. 

●Bewley’s Cafe & Restaurant  

78-79 Grafton St.  

Dublin’s oldest and biggest cafe, this place has been around since 1927 and is famous for its architecture and Harry Clarke windows.  Check out the bakery section in front as you enter so you know what you want to order when you sit down; then find a seat in the small cafe area in front or in the larger open room in back.  You can also go upstairs to the third floor and sit on an open-air balcony overlooking Grafton Street.  In addition to house-roasted coffee, huge scones, sticky sticky buns, and glittery frosted cupcakes are on the menu.  So is stew and shepherd’s pie, and take-out is an option. 

Bewley’s Cafe Theatre presents afternoon shows and evening entertainment on the second floor.

●Statue of Molly Malone  

This 18th-century street vendor is nicknamed “the tart with the cart” and “the dish with the fish.”



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video and images ©2014 Carole Terwilliger Meyers