Come along with me and share the excitement as I explore the world researching freelance articles. These blog posts offer short chunks of travel that you can digest quickly as well as plenty of photos so you get the picture. You'll have some fun, make discoveries, and pick up great ideas and information for your own vacations. Think of me as your canary in the coal mine. For even more travel inspiration, visit my BERKELEY AND BEYOND website at http://www.berkeleyandbeyond.com.
207 N Highland Ave., (432) 729-3669. Pool (heated seasonally); fitness center; restaurant. Pets ok. No smoking.
exterior of Hotel Paisano in Marfa, Texas
Warner Brothers filmed parts of “Giant” in the Hotel Paisano and used it as headquarters while filming the movie. Elizabeth Taylor, Rock Hudson, and James Dean stayed here for the first few weeks, then moved to larger accommodations, but they and the other 150 cast members and crew continued gathering here to dine in the restaurant, socialize in the lobby, and to watch dailies from a projector that director George Stevens set up in the ballroom. Giant photos of the filming hang on the walls, and there is a special room off the restaurant that is devoted to film-related memorabilia. Built in 1930 by Trost & Trost, who also built the Gage hotel in Marathon, this hotel’s facilities include a lovely, though small indoor pool area. At the entrance, a bank of gift shops invite browsing. Coffee and fresh lemonade are always available in the expansive lobby furnished with solid couches and stairs, and once I settled into one I did not want to get up again. If you want to go for broke, reserve the Rock Hudson Suite. It is the hotel’s largest, with a large living and dining area, small kitchen, two bathrooms, a bedroom, and a large front room. It also features a large rooftop terrace with patio furniture and is the perfect place to hold a small dinner party.
lobby of Hotel Paisano in Marfa, Texas
images from "Giant" set at Hotel Paisano in Marfa, Texas
images from "Giant" set at Hotel Paisano in Marfa, Texas
indoor pool at Hotel Paisano in Marfa, Texas
Jett’s Grill
serves everything from a homemade burrito at breakfast to a pistachio-crusted sirloin steak and Black Angus GIANT burger for dinner. The chicken-fried steak is also very good, and the margaritas rock. Snacks and cocktails are served on the patio.
Jett's Grill at Hotel Paisano in Marfa, Texas
outdoor patio at Jett's Grill at Hotel Paisano in Marfa, Texas
Stripes
Another star visited town not too long ago and stopped in at the Stripes convenience store. Located inside a gas station with the same name, this is where Anthony Bordain ate when he was in town. Here to film what turned out to be his last episode of “Parts Unknown,” he apparently visited on a holiday and everything else was closed. He ate a fried burrito, which reputedly did not impress him.
exterior of Stripes gas station and convenience store in Marfa, Texas
interior of Stripes gas station and convenience store in Marfa, Texas
On US. 90, 9 miles E of town, (432) 729-4772. Open 24 hours. Free. Pets ok.
Marfa Lights Viewing Center in Marfa, Texas
Marfa is famous for its elusive lights. A viewing platform at the Marfa Lights Viewing Centeroutside of town marks the best spot to view the phenomenon. Bring a portable chair and some wraps for warmth at night. Here, looking toward the Chinati Mountains, the mysterious mostly-colored orbs sometimes appear at night. There is no rhyme or reason to which nights or at what time. For more than 100 years--they were first reported in 1885--they have inspired much speculation and legend as to their origin and remain unexplained. The night I visited, several locals shared stories about how they had seen the lights in the past and what their experience was like. The lights are described as splitting apart, melting together, disappearing, reappearing, and more. Once we determined that some lights we were seeing were car lights from the highway, and started looking in the right direction, we still didn’t manage to see those Marfa Lights. However, this is all validated because the story has been told on TV’s “Unsolved Mysteries.” The next week, when I visited San Antonio, I did, finally, see the Marfa Lights--or what I imagine they look like. Restrooms, picnic tables, and campsites are available.
1 Cavalry Row, (432) 729-4362. Visitor center open W-Sun 9am-5pm. Guided tours $10-$25; limited access self-guided tour $5-$10. Reservations advised.
entrance to Chinati Foundation in Marfa, Texas
Founded in 1986 by acclaimed sculptor Donald Judd, who fell in love with the area’s light and shadows, the Chinati Foundation display space installs works on a permanent basis. It displays enormous indoor and outdoor installations. Judd’s 100 large-scale concrete boxes formed from aluminum are displayed through two stark, clean-lined, very large buildings. Six former barracks display Don Flavin’s colored fluorescent light installations. The facility encompasses 34 buildings on 340 acres of land that was formerly a military base known as Fort D.A. Russell.
gift shop at Chinati Foundation in Marfa, Texas
Another building downtown displays John Chamberlain’s 22 sculptures formed from wrecked car pieces.
exterior of downtown Chinati Foundation center in Marfa, Texas
exhibit of John Chamberlain pieces at downtown Chinati Foundation center in Marfa, Texas
Founded in the 1880s as a water stop for trains, the high desert town of Marfa nowadays is surrounded by working cattle ranches but is still on the quiet side and has only one traffic signal. The town is known for its high-caliber art galleries, which famously aren’t open at regular hours. This lackadaisical attitude makes for hit-and-miss viewing, which can be quite disappointing when the gallery you really want to see can’t be bothered to open. One local says, “Thousands of people come out here from New York and wander around like lost children.” This tiny town--it is home to less than 2,000 people--has been a co-star in many movies, including “Andromeda Strain” (1971), “No Country For Old Men” and “There Will Be Blood” (2007), and most famously “Giant” (1956). And good to know in summer, at an altitude 4,685 feet (or is it 4,711 or 4,843 feet?, there is plenty of confusion), it is often one of the coolest places in the state. More information.
107-109 N. Highland, Brite Bldg., (432) 729-3315. Sat-Sun noon-5pm.
Andy Warhol’s “The Last Supper” on one side, Maria Zerres “September Eleven” on the other. The big mystery at the AYN Foundation gallery is how to open the door. I would have left without entering had someone not exited--opening the door for me.
entrance to AYN Foundation (Das Maximum) Andy Warhol art gallery
in Marfa in West Texas
1300 W. San Antonio St., (432) 295-3732. B-L daily 11am-3pm.
front patio at The Water Stop in Marfa, Texas
Appearing to be a welcome mirage after the dusty drive into town, this counter-service stop serves up some exceptional grub. It seems that everything on the menu at The Water Stop is delicious--you can’t go wrong. I opted for a giant biscuit--homemade prickly pear jam came with it--that was both delicate and crispy and actually too much for me to eat. Which was a good thing, because my dining companions were all asking for nibbles. I paired it with a side salad that was stuffed with all kinds of veggie goodies. My companions selected a roasted chicken avocado toast and a cheeseburger and were equally pleased. My drink selection was surprisingly delicious--a colorful watermelon lemonade--but additional options include house cold-brew coffee, ice cold beer, and wine. Though we were mighty pleased with the warm greeting we received inside the cool interior space, outdoor seating is available on an inviting, expansive patio. In the past, this sweet spot has operated as several other restaurants, a grocery store, and an Exxon gas station.
dining room at The Water Stop in Marfa, Texas
kitchen at The Water Stop in Marfa, Texas
biscuit and salad at The Water Stop in Marfa, Texas
1.4 miles outside of Valentine on right side of Hwy., 20 miles northwest of Marfa.
exterior of Prada Marfa art installation in Valentine, Texas
Installed in 2005, the permanent Prada Marfa sculptural art work was made by Berlin-based artists Elmgreen and Dragset. It is filled with shoes and other luxury items from Prada’s 2005 collection. But leave your credit card in your wallet--this store never opens. For you Instagrammers, hashtags and @ addresses are provided on a plaque. At some point, visitors started attaching love locks to an adjacent fence much like is done on bridges in Europe.
exterior of Prada Marfa art installation in Valentine, Texas
love locks and other things on fence adjacent to Prada Marfa art installation
in Valentine, Texas
“Giant” movie set art installation
On Wyatt Ranch, west of Marfa.
"Giant" movie set art installation in Marfa, Texas
Just a little farther down the road from Prada Marfa, you’ll see this giant art installation by California-based artist John Cerney. Situated on the ranch where part of the movie was filmed, this "Giant" movie set art installation includes huge cutouts of Elizabeth Taylor and James Dean (this was his last film), another of Rock Hudson in a yellow convertible, and in the background a set of the film’s house. Dennis Hopper was also in the movie, but he is missing from this display. Music by Michael Nesmith emanates from fake rocks. The overall experience is quite exciting.
Rock Hudson in yellow convertible on "Giant" movie set art installation
in Marfa, Texas
James Dean on "Giant" movie set art installation in Marfa, Texas
Elizabeth Taylor on "Giant" movie set art installation in Marfa, Texas
World’s Smallest “Target” Store
On US 90, west of Marathon.
woman prepares to shop at World's Smallest "Target" Store in Marathon, Texas
Just look for the red Target sign to find the last of the big three roadside art installations. Titled the World's Smallest "Target" Store, this tiny building--a former switch station building for the railroad--mimics a Target store, complete with red shopping cart and basket, but you won’t be doing any shopping here. Colorful graffiti covers the inside, but be careful in there--it has been known to harbor a hiding rattlesnake or two. The building abuts a train track, so sometimes you’re lucky enough to see one pass by. No artist has claimed this project.
graffiti inside World's Smallest "Target" Store in Marathon, Texas
