My Five Favorite Fun Things to Do in Iceland

My Five Favorite Fun Things to Do in Iceland

It’s been almost a year since I visited Iceland, and I still so enjoy reminiscing about the exciting things I did there.  When people ask me about the best of it, I answer that these five things are my favorites--the don’t-misses.  I could easily turn this into a Top Ten list by adding in a drive around the island with stays along the way.  And then there is doing a cave tour, seeing the Northern Lights, and eating some pristinely fresh Iceland fish.  As much time as you have, there is that much more to do that is worth doing. 

1.  Soak in the Blue Lagoon 

This was the number one thing I most wanted to experience in Iceland.  I love hot springs, and this one, described as large and hot and manmade, did intrigue me.  In advance I was concerned about privacy in the changing rooms, which turned out to be a breeze to maneuver and to secure a private spot in a restroom for a quick change.  I also was able to go in the shower in my bathing suit, though I had heard you couldn’t.  I certainly didn’t want to be there in my birthday suit among the many giggling 20 year olds!  The lagoon itself was heaven.  I loved sipping a cocktail while I steamed, and I know that the free goo from the silica pots made me look several years younger, at least while it was on my face.

Blue Lagoon in Iceland

2.  Ride an Icelandic horse

Although I didn’t exactly ride my horse, I did mount it and pet it and get my picture taken with it, and I enjoyed watching the rest of the people in my group experience the unique tolt gait trot the horse is famous for.  On the farm visit that was included with this horsey experience, we also were introduced to a charming “sunshine tea” in the farmer’s own home.  It consists of crepes served with blueberry preserves and whipped cream, plus and round donut-hole-like “love balls.”  This tea celebrates the return of the sun after the sunless few months that occur here every winter. 

two Icelandic horses

3.  Take the Iceland Golden Circle tour 

I took a basic group bus tour from Reykjavik that stopped at the major sites along this route:  Þingvellir national park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site where we walked through the separation caused by the slow drifting apart of the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates that meet here; Gullfoss waterfall, where we were almost blown away by the strength of the roaring falls’ mist; and the Geysir geothermal area, where we walked among bubbling mud pools and watched the predictable eruptions of Strokkur geyser, and where I think my camera met pending doom from the resulting steam (be careful here and cover your camera!).  Lunch was included.  I liked that this expedition was guided because I didn’t have to do any planning—just go.  Some tours add on extras, such as riding an Icelandic horse or soaking in the natural geothermal baths at a wellness center, or visiting one of the farms to meet locals, pet animals, and sample some Icelandic delicacies.  Do a little research and then settle on the tour that adds in what you personally don’t want to miss.

walking between tectonic plates in Þingvellir national park
on Iceland Golden Circle tour

4.  Stroll Reykjavik and select a souvenir  

Reykjavik--pronounced “Ray-kah-vik”--is Iceland’s biggest city but it is small enough to stroll through in a day.  Downtown, you’ll walk along winding cobblestone streets see colorful architecture and street art graffiti.  Try to fit in a visit to the Hafnarhus art museum located in a refurbished 1930s fish warehouse and the architecturally interesting Hallgrimskirkja Church, which  can be seen from almost everywhere in town.  In between, you’ll come across some of the unusual shops where you are bound to find the perfect locally made souvenir.  The Handknitting Association of Iceland is the place to find a well-priced knit sweater or a red knitted Santa (which I still regret not buying).  Visit the Kraum Centre for Icelandic Craft inside the city’s oldest wood house to select from an intriguing collection of Icelandic pottery, jewelry, household utensils, and clothes, plus whimsy in the form of a fuzzy sheep-fleece topped stool (I also regret not buying this!).

Reykjavik scenic in Iceland

5.  Eat an Icelandic hot dog 

Bæjarins Bestu Pylsur is located downtown by the bus station and is probably the most famous spot to eat the famous Icelandic “pylsur,” or hot dog.  Usually made with free-range, grass-fed, organic, hormone-free Icelandic lamb, locals like them with “everything”--ketchup, sweet brown mustard, remoulade sauce (a mix of mayo, capers, mustard, and herbs), raw onions, and crispy fried onions.  When I walked by here, I wasn’t hungry, so I finally ate my dog at the last minute at the airport and it wasn’t bad.

Bæjarins Bestu Pylsur hot dog stand in Reykjavik, Iceland

Note:  Guide to Iceland asked me to share my Iceland experience in this blog post.  All opinions and comments are my own.

More things to do in Reykjavik.

Things to do in Iceland's Northeast.

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images ©2015 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

Reykjavik, Iceland: Golden Circle tour; things to do

Golden Circle tour 

The Golden Circle tour day trip is short in distance from Reykjavik but long on sights—it takes in a trio of the most iconic wonders in Iceland.  And in between, you’ll see moss-covered lava fields as well as tiny birch trees that are the only indigenous trees on this island (early Viking settlers brought all their wood for house and boat building as do residents import it today). 

North American and Eurasian tectonic plates meet

Silfra crack in Thingvellir National Park in Iceland

●Thingvellir National Park  

This UNESCO World Heritage Site is where representatives of all Iceland tribes met in 930 at Lake Thingvillaten, establishing the world’s first parliament.  In 1000, the group officially adopted Christianity, and they continued meeting here annually until 1798.  In 1944, when Iceland became independent from Denmark, the nation assembled here to celebrate.  Also, the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates meet here, and visitors can walk through the separation caused by them slowly drifting apart (it was seen in Season 4 of "Game of Thrones").  Since  most tectonic plate boundaries are underwater, this is an unusual and scenic opportunity.  Snorkeling is permitted in the clear water of the Silfra (the crack between the plates), where they can also touch both plates at the same time.

This park is also home to a loo with an amazing view. 

View more loos with a view.

●Gullfoss/Golden Falls  

Nearby, one of the most impressive waterfalls in Europe roars at an L-shaped bend in the Hvitá River.  It falls into the river in two wide stages, and rainbows form in the mist on sunny days.  A path leads along the falls to a spectacular viewing area.

●Geysir Hot Springs  

In Haukadalur.  This geothermal area is sprinkled with steaming water and bubbling mud pools.  Geysir is the original geyser and the first one described in print and is the one after which all others are named.  At about 10,000 years old, it no longer erupts.

But every 10 to 15 minutes the Strokkur geyser sends up a spectacular plume of hot water and steam about 100 feet into the air.  A bubbling up is seen just before it explodes.  Be careful with your camera, because the steam can cause problems.

More non-erupting, colorful sulphur pools are in the immediate area, and the Litli Geysir gurgles and hisses beside the path from the visitor center.  An unusual activity that is sometimes arranged here is making Geysir bread, or “hot spring bread.”  Participants assist a chef in digging up rye bread that has been ‘baking’ underground for 24 hours and also boil eggs in a hot spring.

●Fridheimar Greenhouses  

On some tours, a stop here is included, allowing you to see how delicious organic tomatoes are grown indoors year-round with help from bright lights to mimic the sun, bees to fertilize, and technology and computers to monitor things.

Fridheimar Greenhouse in Iceland

cafe at Fridheimar Greenhouse in Iceland

This site’s owner says, “We make every day perfect for the tomato, and they turn into a perfect tomato for us.”  You’ll want to sample some of the tasty tomatoes and also the small cafe’s specialty tomato soup.

blonde Iceland horse at Fridheimar Greenhouse in Iceland

An adjacent stables is home to Icelandic horses, and horse shows are scheduled. 

●Lindin Bistro  

In Laugarten.  If you’re on your own, plan to stop at this Michelin-starred restaurant for lunch.  You’ll get to sample the premium local produce made into seasonal specialties.  The bread is baked in the ground by hot springs (as described above), and I hear the  lobster bisque is divine.

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images and videos ©2015 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

Reykjavik, Iceland: Blue Lagoon; things to do

Blue Lagoon  

Located between Reykjavik and airport in Keflavik, 45 min. from town, 20 min. from airport.  Admission US$35+. 

Locals prefer their city pool, or “hot pot,” to coming here, to the Blue Lagoon, which they think is too commercial and expensive.  But I think you won’t want to miss it.  Formed by accident in 1976, this gigantic pond in the middle of a lava field opened as a geothermal spa in 1992.  A foggy mist hangs above the opaque, milky-baby-blue water, which ranges from 98 to 102 degrees Fahrenheit.  After it is first used to make heat and electricity, the mineral-rich recycled hot seawater is piped in from a power plant next door. 

entrance to Blue Lagoon in Iceland

bar in Blue Lagoon in Iceland

chillin' at Blue Lagoon in Iceland

Bring along a bathing suit, flip-flops, a towel, and a rubber band for your hair, or you can optionally rent almost anything you need.  Changing rooms are similar to what you would find in a nice spa—small shared locker rooms, open shower cubicles, and private restroom cubicles that you can turn into a changing room if you are modest . . . and fast.  An electronic security bracelet secures your locker and keeps track of your purchases, so you can get a drink at the lagoon bar, a snack at the indoor cafe, or rent an extra towel or fluffy bathrobe with a flick of your wrist.  If you make an appointment ahead, you can even have a massage.  When you leave, your bracelet is scanned and you settle up.

scenic of Blue Lagoon in Iceland

applying silica mud mask at Blue Lagoon in Iceland

entering cave sauna at Blue Lagoon in Iceland

Everyone must shower in the changing area before getting into the lagoon and after as well, but you can probably get away with doing it in your bathing suit if it is crowded and you are quick.  Minerals in the water include silica and sulphur, which are good for skin but bad for hair.  I brought a shower cap, which isn’t very cute, but you can also purchase a swim cap at reception.  If you don’t plan to go under water, you can get by with slathering on the complimentary conditioner provided in the shower area and leaving it in while you soak.  I slathered and put my hair up in rubber bands, too, and it had no lasting issues.  Do also look for the grey silica mask goo found on the side of the lagoon in wood boxes with ladles, and apply it liberally to your face for a deep cleaning and exfoliation.  Water temperature varies around the pond, from mostly perfect to very hot or even lukewarm.  The pool bottom is uneven, and sometimes I found myself up to my chin in hot water, especially in the center.  Should you get tired of bathing, you can explore an area with a cave, a sauna, a steam room, and a massage waterfall.  After, to avoid dry, brittle hair, wash your hair thoroughly with the provided silica purifying shampoo and use more conditioner.

You can arrange to get here by bus tour and airport shuttle.  Many people stop on their way to or from the airport.  Large luggage can stay on the bus or be stored in a building with lockers that is adjacent to the parking lot.  Try to pack ahead in a small bag what you need at the spa.  To avoid crowds, go early--before noon if possible, or late in the afternoon. 

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images ©2015 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

Reykjavik, Iceland: Restaurant Reykjavik; restaurant review

Restaurant Reykjavik  

Vesturgötu 2, 552-3030.  D daily; $$$. 

Situated in the heart of the city inside a four-story historical house known as the Old Dock, Restaurant Reykjavik is one of Iceland’s largest restaurants.  It is the city’s third-oldest house (1863) and before landfill was located on the waterfront.

The chefs know what they are doing, and the servers are delightful. 

waiter serving monkfish with Hollandaise and potatoe cake
at Restaurant Reykjavik in Iceland

Arctic char at Restaurant Reykjavik in Iceland

white chocolate cake with caramel paste at Restaurant Reykjavik in Iceland

My dinner here consisted of an Arctic char appetizer and a main of monkfish with Hollandaise and potatoe cake, washed down with a lovely Italian Pinot Grigio.  White chocolate cake with caramel paste was the satisfying conclusion.

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images ©2015 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

Reykjavik, Iceland: The Pearl; sights to see + restaurant review

The Pearl 

The dome–shaped glass building known as The Pearl is supported by six huge hot-water tanks, each with a capacity of 1 million gallons.  The Saga Museum here displays lifelike silica figures which depict famous Saga scenes.

selfie taken under the Dome of The Pearl in Reykjavik, Iceland

cod dinner under the Dome of The Pearl in Reykjavik, Iceland

The dome houses a revolving restaurant that serves delicious food (think lobster soup with lobster tails, cod with barley, Skyr mousse with blueberries), a small café, and an observation platform—all providing panoramic views of the city and surrounds.  An impressive water feature erupts from the basement into the atrium where events are held, though I somehow managed to miss seeing it.  Outside the building to the left of the car park, the man-made geyser imitates the natural spouting action of the famous Strokkur geysir in southwest Iceland. 
 

view from The Pearl in Reykjavik, Iceland

sculptures at The Pearl in Reykjavik, Iceland

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images ©2015 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

Reykjavik, Iceland: Reykjavik Art Museum; things to do

Reykjavik Art Museum  

Ticket valid at all three museums on the same day.  Under 18 free.  Guided tours in English available June-August. 

The Reykjavik Art Museum is housed in three buildings situated across the city.  In addition to displaying distinguished Icelandic art and international art, the museum promotes local emerging artists.  Combined, the three museums own more than 70,000 pieces. 

●Hafnarhus  

Tryggvagata 17, downtown by the harbor.  Daily 10-5, Thurs to 8.  

Located in a refurbished 1930s fish warehouse, this is the largest of the branches.

Erro exhibit at Hafnarhus branch of Reykjavik Art Museum in Iceland

It houses a permanent collection of Erro, one of Europe’s most notable pop artists.  Temporary shows are progressive and experimental.  A stylish cafe is popular for lunch and refreshment.



“Reactive Wall” (2009) is a temporary show by artist Mojoko (a pseudonym of Steve Lawler) and software programmer Shan-Liang that shows bright graphics that are seen on a black wall reacting to sound made through a microphone. 

●Kjarvalsstadir  

Flokagata 24.  Daily 10-5.  

This branch is in a Nordic-modern building with floor-to-ceiling windows that looks out to Klambratun Park.  It is named for influential Iceland painter Johannes S. Kjarval and houses a comprehensive collection of his works.  Exhibitions focus on paintings and sculptures of established masters of modern art. 

●Asmundarsafn  

Sigtun 105.  Daily; hrs. vary.  Sculpture garden is admission-free.

interior of Asmundarsafn sculpture gallery in Reykjavik, Iceland

sculpture garden at Asmundarsafn sculpture gallery in Reykjavik, Iceland

This sculpture museum is in the former home and workshop of sculptor Asmundur Sveinsson, who designed and constructed most of the building himself.  An upstairs dome room gallery doubles as a whispering chamber.  Sveinsson’s works are displayed both inside and out. 

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images and video ©2014 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

Reykjavik, Iceland: Bæjarins Bestu Pylsur; restaurant review

Bæjarins Bestu Pylsur  

Tryggvagotu 1, +354 511 1566.

Located off a big parking lot behind the old town, the Baejarins Bestu Pylsur food cart reputedly serves up the town’s best hot dog and has been doing that since 1937. Icelanders love their hot dogs, which are made mostly from free-range, grass-fed, organic, hormone-free Icelandic lamb. Ask for one with everything--“ein með öllu”—and you’ll get ketchup, sweet brown mustard (“pylsusinnep”), remoulade sauce (a mix of mayo, capers, mustard, and herbs), raw onions, and crispy fried onions. Pointing at the condiments you also works.

Baejarins Bestu Pylsur food cart in Reykjavik, Iceland

Seventy percent of the country’s 300,000-plus residents have eaten here, as have Bill Clinton (in 2004, he ordered a dog with just mustard) and Metallica band members. The day I was here, two children were eating naked dogs. A hot dog (“pylsur”) costs 350 to 380 ISK (around $3). They're also sold at gas stations, convenience stores, and the airport—where I finally got mine.

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images ©2014 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

Reykjavik, Iceland: shopping downtown; things to do

Shopping Downton on Laugavegur Street

Laugavegur Street is the longest shopping street in Reykjavik with the most shops.  It eventually becomes Bankastraeti.

Skolavordustigur with view of Hallgrimskirkja church, Reykjavik, Iceland

Skolavordustigur is an attractive street at the junction of these two streets, and runs up the hill towards the Hallgrimskirkja church.

Go off the main streets to discover quirky little shops selling all manner of tempting goods.

●Handknitting Association of Iceland  

Laugavegur 53b; Skolavordustigur 19 (the main store).  

This cooperative shop features traditional hand-knit Iopapeysa sweaters.  These aren’t inexpensive, generally running between $150 and $200.  I am regretting that I didn’t buy a few of the red knitted Santas. 

piles of sweaters in Handknitting Association of Iceland shop
on Skolavordustigur, Reykjavik, Iceland

knit Santas in Handknitting Association of Iceland shop on Skolavordustigur, Reykjavik, Iceland

●66° North  

Bankastraeti 5 and 9.  

Started in 1926 to make outdoor clothing to protect fishermen and other workers from Arctic weather extremes, this well-known local brand now produces edgy, fashionable clothing.  Sweet little items for children are also available.  

66° North shop in Reykjavik, Iceland

●Flying Tiger Copenhagen  

Laugavegur 13; www.likealocalguide.com/reykjavik/tiger.  

This bright shop is filled with mostly small, colorful Scandinavian items.  A branch is now in NYC. 

Tiger shop in Reykjavik, Iceland

Many more shops are found in the old city center.  This one is exceptional:

Kraum Centre for Icelandic Craft  

Adalstræti 10.  

The city’s oldest wood house is now home to an intriguing collection of Icelandic pottery, jewelry, household utensils, and clothes, plus whimsy in the form of a fuzzy sheep-fleece topped stool (I so wish I had bought one!).

exterior of Kraum Centre for Icelandic Craft in Reyjkavik, Iceland

merchandise inf Kraum Centre for Icelandic Craft in Reyjkavik, Iceland

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images ©2014 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

Reykjavik, Iceland: Three iconic buildings: Hallgrimskirkja Church + Harpa Concert Hall + Höfði House; things to do

Three Iconic Buildings in Reykjavik, Iceland

Hallgrimskirkja Church  

101 Reykjavik.  Daily 9am-5pm, to 9pm in summer.  Free; admission fee for tower.  

The tallest building in town, this architecturally interesting Lutheran church (more than 95% of Icelanders are Lutheran) can be seen from almost everywhere in town.  Its interior is stark and filled with light.  It features a sweeping two-sided staircase to heaven, or you can take an elevator.

exterior of Hallgrimskirkja Church in Reykjavik, Iceland

Harpa Concert Hall and Conference Centre  

Resembling an enormous honeycomb, sun shimmers through the unusual geometric windows.  This state-of-the-art building was completed in 2011 and is home to the Icelandic symphony and opera.  It also hosts art exhibitions, musical performances, and international conferences.  A good restaurant offers a view of the harbor’s icy blue waters. 

exterior of Harpa Concert Hall in Reykjavik, Iceland

Höfði House  

This famous 1909 house is where presidents Mikhail Gorbachov and Ronald Reagan met for the Reykjavik summit in 1986.

exterior of Höfði House in Reykjavik, Iceland

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images ©2014 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

Reykjavik, Iceland: Hilton Reykjavik Nordica + Icelandair Hotel Reykjavik Marina; hotel reviews

Hilton Reykjavik Nordica  

In the financial district, 1.5 mi./5 min. to town.  Restaurant.  Breakfast included. 

This hotel is just a short journey from the city center via complimentary city bus and only 5 minutes from the Laugardalur geothermal swimming pool and sports center.

It has typical clean-lined Scandinavian style and is in a great location overlooking the sea and mountains surrounding Reykjavik.

Ask for an ocean-view room on right side of building. 

Icelandair Hotel Reykjavik Marina  

Downtown harbor district.  108 rooms.  Restaurant. 

Located in the heart of town, this hotel has a quirky and colorful decor that blends modern Icelandic design with old objects salvaged from the surrounding harbor.  All furniture and fittings are custom-made in Iceland.  The bright lobby and other common areas are whimsical, but the hotel also manages to be comfortable and cozy.  Many restaurants and bars are nearby.

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images ©2014 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

Introduction to Reykjavik, Iceland

city view of Reykjavik, Iceland

The most northern capital in the world, Reykjavik--pronounced “Ray-kah-vik”--gets plenty of sometimes-sulphur-stinky hot water from the ground.  Though small, it is one of Europe’s party capitals and is filled with lively techno and rock bars and has plenty of cool cafes and trendy restaurants.  Crisp, clean air makes it memorable.

purple WOW airline offices in Reykjavik, Iceland

A half day on foot lets you can see the main sights downtown, which include colorful architecture and street art graffiti.  The old center is European quaint, with cobblestones and winding streets (unfortunately, a fire there in 1913 destroyed many old wood buildings).

city view of Reykjavik, Iceland

Surprisingly, Reykjavik is not only the closest European city to New York but is also generally warmer in January than New York.  Perhaps not such a surprise, since it has almost 40 publishing houses, is that it was named a UNESCO City of Literature in 2011.

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images ©2014 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

Introduction to Iceland

A “land of fire and ice,” Iceland was the last country in Europe to be settled--by Norwegians in the area of Reykjavik in 874 (Celtic settlers from Ireland and Scotland arrived later).  It is also officially the youngest country in the world.  The Icelandic language dates back to Vikings.  Independence from Denmark came in 1944. 

Iceland's Northeast

Though much of its terrain is desolate and with few trees, this volcanic island is surprisingly diverse, with moss-covered lava fields, a gigantic glacier, and a few snow-covered peaks.

Iceland's Bardarbunga volcano eruption 2014

Iceland's many volcanoes remain very active.  Chaos ensued a few years ago when a volatile volcano literally blew its top, and the resulting air debris upset European air travel.  The notorious volcanoes are in the center of the island, basically in the middle of nowhere, and the locals are just fine with that.

Most of the country’s 320,000 people live along the 850-mile-long Ring Road/Route 1 around the perimeter.  The interior is uninhabited, and there are no roads through it.  Reykjavik is home to 60% of the people.  Almost 95% of homes have geo-thermal power, and the many thermal pools are popular places for people to socialize. 

Iceland elected the world’s first female president in 1980, had the first openly gay prime minister (gay marriage is allowed), and has almost 40 publishing houses.   

My first impressions of the country were of flat land, a faint odor of sulphur, and grey skies.  That was later tempered by driving through the more mountainous terrain of the northeast and experiencing there some crisp air and blue skies.  I noticed that they drive on the right and have many sensible round-abouts.  I gathered from a cab driver that they aren’t terribly fond of Norwegians, whom he described as speaking “like they have a potato in the throat.”

Among the many fascinating facts about Iceland is that more than 90,000 citizens of the 320,000 population own firearms, which are mostly rifles and shotguns used for hunting.  Murders average only two per year, and prison capacity is 150 prisoners.  When that limit is reached, overflow prisoners are allowed to go about their regular lives waiting for their turn for punishment. 

And even though Iceland is at the top of the world near the Arctic Circle, winter temperatures can be warmer than New York, London, or Paris.  In summer, you can get away with wearing just a light sweater weather.  And, blessedly, there are no ticks or mosquitoes. 

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images ©2014 Carole Terwilliger Meyers