Shanghai, China: Old City/Bazaar Shanghai; things to do + restaurant reviews

Old City/Bazaar Shanghai  

South of The Bund, by Shanghai Old Street/Shanghai Lao Jie. 

The city’s original core, the warren of narrow pedestrian-only lanes in the Old City/Bazaar Shanghai is lined with large reconstructed Ming and Qing dynasty buildings featuring ornate rooftops.  Many now hold food and souvenir stalls.  Farther from the core are tenements with laundry hanging over railings to dry, backstreet businesses, and a few temples.  At the western end of the street at Henan Lu, you can catch a taxi back to your hotel.

perimeter of Old City in Shanghai, China

pedestrian street in Old City in Shanghai, China

militaristas taking photo in Old City in Shanghai, China

shop in Old City in Shanghai, China

children enjoying peep show in Old City in Shanghai, China

Sights

Yu Yuan/Yuyuan Garden  

132. Anren St., in the heart of Old City.  Daily 8:30am-4:30pm. 

Dating back 400 years to the Ming Dynasty, the famous Yu Yuan/Yuyuan Garden was built in 1559 by Pan Yunduan as a private garden for his parents.  It is said to be the most beautiful classical garden in China--more beautiful even than those in Suzhou.  "Yu" translates as "peace and health," and this garden is indeed a place of peace and comfort in the heart of busy Shanghai.  It is a large walled complex of tranquil gardens and traditional Chinese houses, with rock gardens, ponds, bridges, and pavilions, and, of course, it attracts plenty of tourists.  Fat golden Chinese carp and Japanese koi fish swim in a pond.  Try your luck at the wishing waterfall, where, after you find the four stone dragons hidden among the stones, the tradition is to throw a coin out onto them.  If your coin stays on the stone, your wish is granted; if it falls in the water, you’re out of luck. 

Just outside the garden to the north, The Bridge of Nine Turnings/Jiu Qu Qiao Bridge/Zigzag Bridge leads over a pond to the Huxinting Teahouse/Huxinting Chashe/Yeshi Tea House, a classic mid-lake pavilion that is the perfect place to stop for tea.  Service is inexpensive, but costs about twice as much upstairs as it does downstairs because of the view and more serene atmosphere. 

Yuyuan Garden in Old City in Shanghai, China

dragon detail in Yuyuan Garden in Old City in Shanghai, China

golden coi in Yuyuan Garden in Old City in Shanghai, China

Shops

Tea Garden  

158 0091 3143.  

This shop is loaded with tea in tins.  I especially like these tins because the tops twist off and can be reused.  The tea is displayed so you can touch and smell samples, and clerks are helpful.  I also liked that teas are packaged in small containers that allow you to sample several kinds.  I selected Lapsangsouchong black tea and Big Red Robe oolong tea for my souvenirs.

Tea Garden shop in Old City in Shanghai, China

tea display in Tea Garden shop in Old City in Shanghai, China

Restaurants

Xinxiang steamed bun restaurant  

This is the town’s most famous place for Shanghai’s famous xiaolongbao steamed dumplings with crab meat.  I hear there is always a long line of people waiting to buy dumplings from the first-floor stall at Xinxiang restaurant (they then eat them on the street just like we would a hot dog).  If you want to sit down, go upstairs where you will pay a cashier twice as much for the privilege and you will also have to hover to secure your own seats.  When you are finally seated, a server delivers the goods and picks up your chit and check.  We waited on the second floor for about 20 minutes before some kind, already-seated Chinese people offered us two empty chairs at their table (like in Germany at a beer garden, it is customary to share tables here).  We then engaged in pleasant conversation via sign language.  For more menu choices, table service, and a view, head to the third floor where everything costs three times as much.  By the way, I didn’t detect the taste of crab meat in the buns. 

Shanghai dumplings at Xinxiang restaurant in Old City in Shanghai, China

diners texting at Xinxiang restaurant in Old City in Shanghai, China

the bill at Xinxiang restaurant in Old City in Shanghai, China

Shanghai dumplings with straws from street vendor in Old City
in Shanghai, China

Yu Garden Tea House  

133 YuYuan Old Street, in first block outside Yu Garden exit gate, 021-63264514. 

I knew we had to stop here for refreshment when I saw from the street below the second-floor table for two set out in the open on a tiny sheltered balcony.  I longed to sit there for a while and observe the activity below, which I was currently amid.  Once seated, I realized it was pretty much only hot tea that was on the menu, and since it was also a hot day I preferred to drink cold beer.  The solo beer choice on the menu was the equivalent of US$8, which is outrageous in these parts.  Times two that was US$16.  We got up to abandon ship, but were convinced to stay by an offer of two beers for US$8.  Still a ridiculous price, we decided to take it and did not regret this atmospheric break.  I learned that people generally come here for extensive tea tastings.  Instead of what we did, I would advise you to plan to drink beer elsewhere and come here for some tea tasting and tea purchasing because it is fairly-priced for that.  When you depart, ask for directions to the nearby Zigzag Bridge.

Yu Garden Tea House in Old City in Shanghai, China

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images ©2015 Carole Terwilliger Meyers