Liscannor, Ireland: Cliffs of Moher + O’Brien’s Tower; things to do

Cliffs of Moher  

1 hr. NW of Shannon airport, 2 hrs. S of Galway, near the village of Liscannor, +353 65 708 6141.   Opens 9am.  E6, 65+ E4, under 16 free; guided tour E45. 

This is Ireland’s most visited natural attraction and a UNESCO recognized Geopark.  Towering 702 feet above the roaring Atlantic Ocean and running for a 5-mile stretch, the shale and sandstone Cliffs of Moher are so high that the ocean’s roar is heard as just a whisper.  This official entry provides protected cliff-side pathways.  An eco-certified, grass-roofed building embedded unobtrusively in a hillside holds a cafe and the visitor center, where you can view two short movies and take the 5-minute “Ledge Experience.”  Free WiFi is available throughout!  On clear days you can the Aran Islands and on to Connemara.  Rain and fog are disappointing and not unusual, but you will still enjoy a visit.  Hags Head outside Liscannor Village is the most southerly point of the cliffs and the sweet fishing village of Doolin is the northerly point. 

●O’Brien’s Tower  

€2 , children €1. 

Built cliff-side in 1835, this tower stands near the cliffs’ highest point.  You can climb a spiral staircase to a viewing platform on its crenellated top.  The area immediately north known as Cliff of the Foals is a world-famous surf spot.

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first image, vintage photo courtesy of venue; second image c2013 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

How to rent a car in Ireland

When renting a car in Ireland, choose the smallest car that can accommodate you and your luggage.  You’ll be glad you did when you find yourself driving along one of the narrow country roads lined with dry-stone walls.  Take note of the the duct-taped mirror in the picture of me in our Dooley Car Rental.  Fortunately the damage was done by someone previous to us, but it is an example of what you might be in for! 

car from Dooley Car Rental in Ireland

Apparently Ireland is one of two countries in Western Europe that have the most traffic accidents (the other is Portugal).  Because most credit cards no longer offer complimentary collision insurance in the Republic of Ireland, you will most likely need to buy Collision Damage Waiver insurance (CDW)--which limits your financial responsibility in case of an accident.  It is expensive.  While you can opt out of the CDW in some countries, it is a mandatory coverage in Ireland (actually, you can waive CDW, however you will be liable for the full value of the car in the event of damage/theft, and you will be required to leave a deposit of €3,000). 

After checking with several car rental agencies, Dooley Car Rentals  felt like a good choice to me because it is an Irish company and has a fully inclusive rate.  Be aware that some car rental agencies won’t rent to, or charge additional for, drivers under age 21 or over 69 and for taking a car into Northern Ireland.  Dooley’s is the only company that will provide cars to clients between the ages of 21 and 24, and it doesn’t charge extra for traveling to Northern Ireland.  A piece of advice once you have your car (this was our mantra in Ireland)--look right, drive left.  Another item to consider--though it costs more for an automatic transmission, I did think it was well worth the expense. 

My favorite road sign was for “traffic calming” areas before roundabouts, which are prevalent, efficient, and easy to get used to.


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image c2013 Gene Meyers

Introduction to visiting Ireland

The island of Ireland is comprised of the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland (which along with England, Scotland, and Wales forms the United Kingdom).  An official border has separated them since 1922.  The Atlantic Ocean is to the west and the Irish Sea to the east.  Ireland is one of Europe's least densely populated countries.  Like many islands that were once entirely forested—most famously Easter Island—the trees have been almost completely cleared, and for almost 200 years now Ireland has imported almost all its wood.  Prehistoric bogs and limestone plains survive, and Ireland famously has no snakes but does have one lizard.  And though Johnny Cash sang of Ireland as having “forty shades of green,” and before my visit I saw in my mind’s eye sunny skies, the reality in late September/early October was a graying mist.  And that’s probably why the island is so brilliantly green when the sun does shine.

sheep in Conor Pass on the Dingle Peninsula in Ireland

More things to do in Ireland.

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9+ Day Ireland Itinerary.

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image c2013 Carole Terwilliger Meyers