Houston, Texas: Great 'que; restaurant review

Great 'que

I recently visited four great barbecue spots in Houston and experienced four different styles of Texas ‘cue. My palate discovered just how good Texas barbecue really is, and my tummy survived the research nicely, thank you very much.

● African-American: Thelma’s Bar-B-Que

3755 Southmore Blvd., 713-228-2262. 

The bad news is the highly atmospheric location on Live Oak burned down. The good news is Thelma’s Bar-B-Que has reopened in the Third Ward close to the University of Houston. Famous for her brisket sandwich, ribs, and okra, Thelma says, "We like to cook it to death.” Wash it down with sweet tea or cold beer.

● Mexican: El Hidalguense 

3631 Hillcroft St., 713-781-6656. 

Mexican barbacoa at El Hidalguense includes cabrito (baby goat on a spit), really good barbecue chicken, and, of course, moles and salsas, and, on weekends, cow’s head.

● Cowboy: Pizzitola's Bar-B-Cue 

1703 Shepherd Dr., 713-227-2283. 

With its shack atmosphere of long communal tables, Pizzitola's Bar-B-Cue still produces slow-cooked barbecue in the original open pit. Menu highlights include brisket, smoked chicken, and old-time banana pudding, as well as pretty darn good baked potatoes and coleslaw.

● German: Goode Co. Barbeque 

5015 Kirby Dr., 713-526-9700. 

In an atmosphere that is a more upscale than the first three, the Hill Country Czech-style Goode Co. Barbecue produces delicious barbecue duck and sausage as well as tasty jalapeno-cheese bread and a famous pecan pie. The related Armadillo Palace (www.thearmadillopalace.com) is an atmospheric old west-style saloon located just across the street.



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image copyright 2009 Carole Terwilliger Meyers