December 31, 2014

Solana Beach, California: shopping + Zinc Café (CLOSED); things to do

Cedros Design District  

100-300 blocks of Cedros Ave., 14 miles north of La Jolla, Lomas Santa Fe Drive exit off I-5, (858) 755-0444.

Cedros Design District in Solana Beach, California
Cedros Design District in Solana Beach, California

Home to many architects, builders, designers, and interior decorators, these three strollable blocks more than 85 unique boutiques and galleries.


jewelery at Antique Warehouse in Cedros Design District in Solana Beach, California
jewelery at Antique Warehouse in Cedros Design District
in Solana Beach, California

Antiques on Cedros  

118 S. Cedros Ave., (858)704-4900.  This collective has more than 50 dealers.  A specialty is fine estate jewelry.

Antique Warehouse  

CLOSED  212 S. Cedros Ave., (858) 755-5156.  W-M 10-5.  There is space for 101 dealers to display their finds in this uncluttered, multi-dealer antique warehouse.  The cleanly curated selection of antiques, collectibles, and memorabilia includes an excellent selection of gemstone rings, record albums, china, and more. 

Chic Weed  

240 S. Cedros Ave., (858) 205-8083.  This mostly outdoor garden shop is a pleasant browse.

Cut Loose

MOVED  142 S. Cedros Ave. #K, (858) 509-0386.  14 M-Sat 10-5:30, Sun 11-5.  Made in San Francisco, this brand is designed for larger women.  It uses fabulous colors and fabrics, especially linen. 


Leaping Lotus in Cedros Design District in Solana Beach, California
Leaping Lotus in Cedros Design District in Solana Beach, California

Leaping Lotus  

CLOSED  240 S. Cedros Ave., (858) 720-8283.  M-Sat 10-6, Sun 11-6.  More than 100 vendors display a stunning variety of goods in a gigantic two-floor warehouse space.  Items include clothing, house and garden goods, and unusual gifts. 


SoLo shop in Cedros Design District in Solana Beach, California
SoLo shop in Cedros Design District in Solana Beach, California

SoLo  

309 S. Cedros Ave., (858) 794-9016.  This upscale collective displays  creative and stylish collections of gifts and home accessories from eight different vendors in a dramatic restored warehouse.


egg salad sandwich and chili at Zinc Cafe in Cedros Design District in Solana Beach, California
egg salad sandwich and chili at Zinc Cafe in Cedros Design District
in Solana Beach, California


sparrows at Zinc Cafe in Cedros Design District in Solana Beach, California
sparrows at Zinc Cafe in Cedros Design District in Solana Beach, California

Zinc Café  

CLOSED 132 S. Cedros Ave., (858) 793-5436.  My favorite lunch here is a half egg-salad sandwich with a bowl of chili and a lemon-frosted pecan cookieMore description.



December 29, 2014

La Jolla, California: Shopping along Girard Ave. and Prospect St.; things to do + restaurant review

Shopping along Girard Avenue and Prospect Street in La Jolla 

Prospect Street is known as “The Rodeo Drive of San Diego,” but wide, boulevard-like Girard, Fay, and Pearl streets aren’t too shabby either.  High-end boutiques have set up shop on these tony main drags, but amidst them you’ll find unique local boutiques and galleries as well.


book section at Warwick's in La Jolla, California
book section at Warwick's in La Jolla, California

Warwick's  

7812 Girard Ave., (858) 454-0347.  M-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun 10 am-5:30 pm.  Free parking behind store.  One of San Diego's oldest stationers, this local institution offers a great selection of paper goods.  Also a bookstore, you’ll find everything from the latest novels to novel gift boxes disguised as novels to hide things in.  This is also a popular stop for top-name author appearances.  And should you have questions, the knowledgeable staff is happy to help and will even gift wrap your purchase for free.


shape cookies at Girard Gourmet in La Jolla, California
shape cookies at Girard Gourmet in La Jolla, California

Girard Gourmet  

7837 Girard Ave., (858) 454-3325.  B-L-D daily; $.  This popular European-style bakery-deli always has a line out the door, but the delicious sandwiches made with crispy-crusted Italian bread and salads are worth the wait.  Squirmy kids start salivating and become more willing to wait when promised their choice of one of the decorated shape cookies in the window display--a whale frosted in blue, a seal topped with chocolate icing, or maybe a panda bear in black and white.  Yum.  Best scenario:  Select a picnic’s worth of goodies to go.  

2020 pandemic update:  The line here usually is out the door.  When I visited for take-out, customers were not observing social distancing.  Their excitement to get inside and see the goods seemed to be outweighing pandemic rules.  Order ahead and you will be able to squeeze through to the head of the line to pay and pick up.  My take away included a superb gigantic and colorful chicken curry sandwich topped with red beets that was large enough to share, which I took to the ocean-front walkway to eat in my car; an apricot rugulach and crispy, cinnamony, crumbly cowboy cookie for a snack; a shepherd’s pie made with ground lamb and beef and topped with mashed potatoes, along with a side of cucumber salad,  for dinner; and croissants for breakfast (they were out of almond croissants and unfortunately the regular croissants are not a high point).  

line and counter at Girard Gourmet in La Jolla, California
line and counter at Girard Gourmet in La Jolla, California


deli case at Girard Gourmet in La Jolla, California
deli case at Girard Gourmet in La Jolla, California




More things to do in La Jolla.

Things to do in nearby San Diego.



images ©2014 and 2020 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

December 19, 2014

Reykjavik, Iceland: Reykjavik Art Museum; things to do

Reykjavik Art Museum  

Ticket valid at all three museums on the same day.  Under 18 free.  Guided tours in English available June-August. 

The Reykjavik Art Museum is housed in three buildings situated across the city.  In addition to displaying distinguished Icelandic art and international art, the museum promotes local emerging artists.  Combined, the three museums own more than 70,000 pieces. 

Hafnarhus  

Tryggvagata 17, downtown by the harbor.  Daily 10-5, Thurs to 8.  

Located in a refurbished 1930s fish warehouse, this is the largest of the branches.


Erro exhibit at Hafnarhus branch of Reykjavik Art Museum in Iceland
Erro exhibit at Hafnarhus branch of Reykjavik Art Museum in Iceland


It houses a permanent collection of Erro, one of Europe’s most notable pop artists.  Temporary shows are progressive and experimental.  A stylish cafe is popular for lunch and refreshment.



“Reactive Wall” (2009) is a temporary show by artist Mojoko (a pseudonym of Steve Lawler) and software programmer Shan-Liang that shows bright graphics that are seen on a black wall reacting to sound made through a microphone. 


Kjarvalsstadir  

Flokagata 24.  Daily 10-5.  

This branch is in a Nordic-modern building with floor-to-ceiling windows that looks out to Klambratun Park.  It is named for influential Iceland painter Johannes S. Kjarval and houses a comprehensive collection of his works.  Exhibitions focus on paintings and sculptures of established masters of modern art. 


Asmundarsafn  

Sigtun 105.  Daily; hrs. vary.  Sculpture garden is admission-free.

interior of Asmundarsafn sculpture gallery in Reykjavik, Iceland
interior of Asmundarsafn sculpture gallery in Reykjavik, Iceland



sculpture garden at Asmundarsafn sculpture gallery in Reykjavik, Iceland
sculpture garden at Asmundarsafn sculpture gallery in Reykjavik, Iceland


This sculpture museum is in the former home and workshop of sculptor Asmundur Sveinsson, who designed and constructed most of the building himself.  An upstairs dome room gallery doubles as a whispering chamber.  Sveinsson’s works are displayed both inside and out. 




images and video ©2014 Carole Terwilliger Meyers


December 17, 2014

Reykjavik, Iceland: Bæjarins Bestu Pylsur; restaurant review

Bæjarins Bestu Pylsur  

Tryggvagotu 1, +354 511 1566.

Located off a big parking lot behind the old town, the Baejarins Bestu Pylsur food cart reputedly serves up the town’s best hot dog and has been doing that since 1937. Icelanders love their hot dogs, which are made mostly from free-range, grass-fed, organic, hormone-free Icelandic lamb. Ask for one with everything--“ein með öllu”—and you’ll get ketchup, sweet brown mustard (“pylsusinnep”), remoulade sauce (a mix of mayo, capers, mustard, and herbs), raw onions, and crispy fried onions. Pointing at the condiments you also works.

Baejarins Bestu Pylsur food cart in Reykjavik, Iceland
Baejarins Bestu Pylsur food cart in Reykjavik, Iceland


Seventy percent of the country’s 300,000-plus residents have eaten here, as have Bill Clinton (in 2004, he ordered a dog with just mustard) and Metallica band members. The day I was here, two children were eating naked dogs. A hot dog (“pylsur”) costs 350 to 380 ISK (around $3). They're also sold at gas stations, convenience stores, and the airport—where I finally got mine.




images ©2014 Carole Terwilliger Meyers


December 15, 2014

Reykjavik, Iceland: shopping downtown; things to do

Shopping Downton on Laugavegur Street


Laugavegur Street is the longest shopping street in Reykjavik with the most shops.  It eventually becomes Bankastraeti.

Skolavordustigur with view of Hallgrimskirkja church, Reykjavik, Iceland
Skolavordustigur with view of Hallgrimskirkja church, Reykjavik, Iceland


Skolavordustigur is an attractive street at the junction of these two streets, and runs up the hill towards the Hallgrimskirkja church.

Go off the main streets to discover quirky little shops selling all manner of tempting goods.

Laugavegur 53b; Skolavordustigur 19 (the main store).  

This cooperative shop features traditional hand-knit Iopapeysa sweaters.  These aren’t inexpensive, generally running between $150 and $200.  I am regretting that I didn’t buy a few of the red knitted Santas. 

piles of sweaters in Handknitting Association of Iceland shop on Skolavordustigur, Reykjavik, Iceland
piles of sweaters in Handknitting Association of Iceland shop
on Skolavordustigur, Reykjavik, Iceland


knit Santas in Handknitting Association of Iceland shop on Skolavordustigur, Reykjavik, Iceland
knit Santas in Handknitting Association of Iceland shop on Skolavordustigur, Reykjavik, Iceland

66° North  

Bankastraeti 5 and 9.  

Started in 1926 to make outdoor clothing to protect fishermen and other workers from Arctic weather extremes, this well-known local brand now produces edgy, fashionable clothing.  Sweet little items for children are also available.  

66° North shop in Reykjavik, Iceland
66° North shop in Reykjavik, Iceland

Flying Tiger Copenhagen  


This bright shop is filled with mostly small, colorful Scandinavian items.  A branch is now in NYC. 

Tiger shop in Reykjavik, Iceland
Tiger shop in Reykjavik, Iceland


Many more shops are found in the old city center.  This one is exceptional:

Kraum Centre for Icelandic Craft  

Adalstræti 10.  

The city’s oldest wood house is now home to an intriguing collection of Icelandic pottery, jewelry, household utensils, and clothes, plus whimsy in the form of a fuzzy sheep-fleece topped stool (I so wish I had bought one!).

exterior of Kraum Centre for Icelandic Craft in Reyjkavik, Iceland
exterior of Kraum Centre for Icelandic Craft in Reyjkavik, Iceland


merchandise inf Kraum Centre for Icelandic Craft in Reyjkavik, Iceland
merchandise inf Kraum Centre for Icelandic Craft in Reyjkavik, Iceland




images ©2014 Carole Terwilliger Meyers


December 12, 2014

Reykjavik, Iceland: Three iconic buildings: Hallgrimskirkja Church + Harpa Concert Hall + Höfði House; things to do

Three Iconic Buildings in Reykjavik, Iceland


101 Reykjavik.  Daily 9am-5pm, to 9pm in summer.  Free; admission fee for tower.  

The tallest building in town, this architecturally interesting Lutheran church (more than 95% of Icelanders are Lutheran) can be seen from almost everywhere in town.  Its interior is stark and filled with light.  It features a sweeping two-sided staircase to heaven, or you can take an elevator.

exterior of Hallgrimskirkja Church in Reykjavik, Iceland
exterior of Hallgrimskirkja Church in Reykjavik, Iceland

Harpa Concert Hall and Conference Centre  

Resembling an enormous honeycomb, sun shimmers through the unusual geometric windows.  This state-of-the-art building was completed in 2011 and is home to the Icelandic symphony and opera.  It also hosts art exhibitions, musical performances, and international conferences.  A good restaurant offers a view of the harbor’s icy blue waters. 

exterior of Harpa Concert Hall in Reykjavik, Iceland
exterior of Harpa Concert Hall in Reykjavik, Iceland

Höfði House  

This famous 1909 house is where presidents Mikhail Gorbachov and Ronald Reagan met for the Reykjavik summit in 1986.

exterior of Höfði House in Reykjavik, Iceland
exterior of Höfði House in Reykjavik, Iceland




images ©2014 Carole Terwilliger Meyers


December 10, 2014

Reykjavik, Iceland: Hilton Reykjavik Nordica + Icelandair Hotel Reykjavik Marina; hotel reviews

Hilton Reykjavik Nordica  

In the financial district, 1.5 mi./5 min. to town.  Restaurant.  Breakfast included. 

This hotel is just a short journey from the city center via complimentary city bus and only 5 minutes from the Laugardalur geothermal swimming pool and sports center.

guest room at Hilton Reykjavik Nordica in Reykjavik, Iceland

It has typical clean-lined Scandinavian style and is in a great location overlooking the sea and mountains surrounding Reykjavik.


view from guest room #520 at Hilton Reykjavik Nordica in Reykjavik, Iceland

Ask for an ocean-view room on right side of building. 


Icelandair Hotel Reykjavik Marina  

Downtown harbor district.  108 rooms.  Restaurant. 

Located in the heart of town, this hotel has a quirky and colorful decor that blends modern Icelandic design with old objects salvaged from the surrounding harbor.  All furniture and fittings are custom-made in Iceland.  The bright lobby and other common areas are whimsical, but the hotel also manages to be comfortable and cozy.  Many restaurants and bars are nearby.

December 5, 2014

Introduction to Reykjavik, Iceland

Introduction to Reykjavik, Iceland



city view of Reykjavik, Iceland
city view of Reykjavik, Iceland


The most northern capital in the world, Reykjavik--pronounced “Ray-kah-vik”--gets plenty of sometimes-sulphur-stinky hot water from the ground.  Though small, it is one of Europe’s party capitals and is filled with lively techno and rock bars and has plenty of cool cafes and trendy restaurants.  Crisp, clean air makes it memorable.


view of purple WOW airline offices in Reykjavik, Iceland
purple WOW airline offices in Reykjavik, Iceland


A half day on foot lets you can see the main sights downtown, which include colorful architecture and street art graffiti.  The old center is European quaint, with cobblestones and winding streets (unfortunately, a fire there in 1913 destroyed many old wood buildings).


city view of Reykjavik, Iceland
city view of Reykjavik, Iceland


Surprisingly, Reykjavik is not only the closest European city to New York but is also generally warmer in January than New York.  Perhaps not such a surprise, since it has almost 40 publishing houses, is that it was named a UNESCO City of Literature in 2011.




images ©2014 Carole Terwilliger Meyers


December 3, 2014

Introduction to Iceland

A “land of fire and ice,” Iceland was the last country in Europe to be settled--by Norwegians in the area of Reykjavik in 874 (Celtic settlers from Ireland and Scotland arrived later).  It is also officially the youngest country in the world.  The Icelandic language dates back to Vikings.  Independence from Denmark came in 1944. 


Iceland's Northeast
Iceland's Northeast


Though much of its terrain is desolate and with few trees, this volcanic island is surprisingly diverse, with moss-covered lava fields, a gigantic glacier, and a few snow-covered peaks.


Iceland's Bardarbunga volcano eruption 2014
Iceland's Bardarbunga volcano eruption 2014


Iceland's many volcanoes remain very active.  Chaos ensued a few years ago when a volatile volcano literally blew its top, and the resulting air debris upset European air travel.  The notorious volcanoes are in the center of the island, basically in the middle of nowhere, and the locals are just fine with that.

Most of the country’s 320,000 people live along the 850-mile-long Ring Road/Route 1 around the perimeter.  The interior is uninhabited, and there are no roads through it.  Reykjavik is home to 60% of the people.  Almost 95% of homes have geo-thermal power, and the many thermal pools are popular places for people to socialize. 

Iceland elected the world’s first female president in 1980, had the first openly gay prime minister (gay marriage is allowed), and has almost 40 publishing houses.   

My first impressions of the country were of flat land, a faint odor of sulphur, and grey skies.  That was later tempered by driving through the more mountainous terrain of the northeast and experiencing there some crisp air and blue skies.  I noticed that they drive on the right and have many sensible round-abouts.  I gathered from a cab driver that they aren’t terribly fond of Norwegians, whom he described as speaking “like they have a potato in the throat.”

Among the many fascinating facts about Iceland is that more than 90,000 citizens of the 320,000 population own firearms, which are mostly rifles and shotguns used for hunting.  Murders average only two per year, and prison capacity is 150 prisoners.  When that limit is reached, overflow prisoners are allowed to go about their regular lives waiting for their turn for punishment. 

And even though Iceland is at the top of the world near the Arctic Circle, winter temperatures can be warmer than New York, London, or Paris.  In summer, you can get away with wearing just a light sweater weather.  And, blessedly, there are no ticks or mosquitoes. 




More travel information about Iceland.

Travel articles to inspire and help you plan some spectacular local and foreign getaways.

images ©2014 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

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